A three speed oscillator that contains a motor run capacitor that makes the fan more efficient than fans without one. The body and cage are aluminum, but the blade is made from steel. It was stripped down to bare metal, primered, painted with 2 coats of black lacquer and 2 coats of clear lacquer polished down to 1. Lastly, it has been polished with a black acrylic wax. A very tough and long lastling finish. Will require ammonia or floor stripper to remove the wax. This unit was originally black.

The blades are well balanced and as a result the fan runs quietly even on high speed. Notice that the rivets that hold the blades onto the shaft have not been painted black, but polished and sprayed with a lacquer clear coat.

UserX doesn't normally endorse commercially available products; however, Semichrome metal polish is a superior product that comes in a small expensive tube. Well worth the money. The cage has been polished with this product and makes the aluminum cage look like chrome. Not much effort needed when used sparingly.

The proper orientation of the cage should place the weld marks on the rings of the cage toward the bottom as seen in this photograph.

The nylon washers used on this fan have been dyed purple to match the felt bottom. The photograph makes them look blue. They look purple to the human eye. None of the bare metal hardware has been painted other than a couple of coats of a specialized clear lacquer. The stainless steel acorn nuts that hold the cage on are not original to the fan, but make it look much nicer.

The oscillator arm was stripped of the original paint, polished and coated with a clear lacquer. At little bit nicer than the other Hunter CG-16 fan listed on this Website.

The image here shows the correct placement of the oscillator arm spline pin attached to the motor pivot stem. It actually attaches from the bottom of the stem and is hammered into the splined hole. The splines on the pin and splines on the hole need to have all paint and dirt removed. Placed incorrectly could break the oscillator arm holder.

Side view from right side of fan. The paint job is actually quite smooth, but the excessive ambient light from an overcast day makes it look otherwise.

The winged screw seen here was originally painted black at the factory, but has been stripped of paint, polished and clear coated with a specialized lacquer. Same is true for the other side of the fan and that includes the end tips too.

The original screw that holds the blade onto the shaft is rounded on its end and matches with the rounded spot on the rotor shaft. The hole seen here is for oil and it appears that 30 drops or so will fill the factory sealed wick laden reservoir. There is another oil reservior on the back of the motor housing. 10 or 20 drops of oil in each should last a couple of years or so before needing more oil. It takes a while for the oil to soak in.

The stainless steel plate on top of the oscillator has not been clear coated. Unusual choice of material for the time period. Sitting just beneath it is a cork gasket to seal the opening. Old cork can be soaked in very hot water to make it temporarily more pliable. The rear oil reservoir is also seen here along with the purple nylon washer that looks blue in the photograph.

The oscillator on/off knob originally looked a little odd without the newly added purple nylon spacer. The spacer needs to fit loosely so that it will not bind the oscillator mechanism when engaged. It was added to make the fan look more complete since without it the knob looks odd. Special care needed to be taken when adding the washer since the oscillator can bind if the washer is too thick. It measures about 1/5 of an inch.

Closeup view of the oscillator housing. The oscillator knob has been carefully painted so that the on/off indicators can be easily seen. The original screw that holds on the knob has been modified a little to recess itself into the knob.

Underside view of the oscillator housing. Interestingly, there is another screw hole for the oscillator mechanism. It is used to make the fan swing wider during oscillation usage. Just switch the oscillator arm with a different hole depending on how wide you would like the oscillator to swing. The screw is left hand threaded and can be a little challenging to screw in.

The brass seen here was originally painted black along with the brass seen on the other side. They both have been stripped of paint, polished and coated with a specialized clear lacquer. It is not recommended that any attempt be made to remove it. It will be quite difficult and most likely cause damage.

The oscillator box is very clean. No damage to either of the fiber gears. When packing the reservoir with grease it is not necessary to fill it up. White lithium grease works well since it is not too viscous. Heavy weight grease could cause to motor to bind a little.

The washer that fits over the fiber gear to the right is the clutch for the oscillator. It is not exactly flat and when the oscillator knob is turned clockwise it increases pressure on the fiber gear to engage the mechanism.

The back side of the fan really has an ornate look to it. Definitely looks like something out of WWII.

Reinsulated stator. Since it could not be removed from the housing the front side was difficult and time consuming to reinsulate.

Front side of stator. Fits together in 2 parts. The ends of the screws have also been polished and clear coated.

The rotor on the left works with the "Series B" fan listed on this Webiste and has a flat spot on the end for the blade square locking nut. The one on the right is from the fan in this gallery ("Series D") that has a steel blade. It has a rounded indentation at the end of the shaft for the blade to lock onto to. The holes in the rotor have a curve to them so air flow will cool the motor more readily.

Both rotors look to be the same except the one on the right has fins on the edges used for cooling the motor (this fan). It appears that 7 washers are needed for the rotor. 3 in the front and 4 in the rear. They need to be placed such that the rotor doesn't knock into the rear of the oscillator housing during usage. The oscillator seen here comes from the fan in this gallery (series D) and appears to be the only type that is removeable. It is held on with a clip. This one is unusual since it has a wool filled reservoir and there are grooved splines on the shaft. Most certainly it was designed to lubricate the shaft. It has been filled with oil to act as a lubricator.

Pictured here are parts for a series B with an aluminum blade (the other CG-16) and a later model series D (this fan) which has a steel blade. Everything is the same except for the speed coil on the right (series D) has a little higher resistance on the higher speeds. The speed coil on the left fits a series B fan. The mounting configuration is a little different too. The original oil filled run capacitors are in excellent condition. The smaller plastic capacitors are made for ceiling fans and work well with this series of electric fans. The switch body is made from Bakelite and is very heavy and quite tough. Much higher quality than modern switches. The plastic piece in the middle is an insulator for the switch. It fits tightly between the switch and base housing. Without it, the fan will most likely short out.

Purple isn't exactly a classic color for a vintage fan, but in this case it is quite appealing. Felt is inexpensive and on this fan replacement would take 10 minutes. There are more than 20 different colors that are readily available. The screws have been polished and coated with clear lacquer.

There are several clips that hold the retaining ring down. They tend to break after a few bends. This one isn't missing any. The bottom plate is always rusty on these old electric fans. This was in excellent original condition, but has been painted and polished on both sides and sits flat. The ring has been polished and coated with a specialized clear lacquer.

The original cord was probably cotton covered, but the new one is rayon covered designed to look like silk cord used on more expensive appliances and is close to 8 feet long. The cord fits very nicely into the rubber grommets that go into the housing of the fan. The rubber grommet that fits into the plug secures the cord and is not original to the fan.

The original plug feels like a very heavy hard rubber. The insert that goes over the polished prongs to hide the electrical connections has been painted black. It is is very heavy gauge fiber board like the original one was.

The switch and knob are original to the fan. The knob has a strong formaldehyde aroma when rubbed with metal polish and is made out of Bakelite. Notice how the numbering and lettering on the body for the switch has not been painted, but has been polished and clear coated. It is a little bit nicer than the other Hunter CG-16 fan in the UserX fan collection.

The label has been meticulously painted where it needed to be and polished where it wasn't, then clear coated over the entire surface. It appears that this fan was never hung on a wall and is in better condition than the one on the other fan. Robbins and Myers purchased Hunter in 1949 and became a "division" of Robbins and Myers until the Hunter employees bought Hunter in 1985. The label indicates a time before the Robbins and Myers acquisition. Hard to tell exactly when this fan was manufactured, but best guess places it around 1948. The rubber bushings seen here where the electrical cords go into the body are a very close match to the originals. You've seen them before but what are they? They are made by Cooper Wiring Devices and called WD Black Bushing for .375" diameter hole catalogue 76-Box. They are somewhat expensive and hard to find, but in production as of the year 2019.

This is actually the original condition photograph of the other fan in the collection, but both looked identically bad. It almost looks like something you would find in the trash. Its not like that now.

This is actually the original condition photograph of the other fan in the collection. The only difference is the wire nuts. The originals are ceramic and the fan in this gallery has all of the original ceramic wire nuts.

The inside of the housing has been cleaned and polished and looks better than the other fan of this type.

The internals fit tightly into their prospective places and have been insulated and labeled. The speed coil is hidden below the capacitor. The capacitor can be replaced with a modern one. A new one should have at least the same voltage and no more than 20% more of the capacitance measured in microfarads (mfd or µfd). The one pictured earlier in this gallery is rated at 1.8 µfd (± 5%) 450VAC. Notice the original ceramic wire nuts.

Bare bell housing. Still needs a little polishing as there are some blemishes. Hard to see except upon close examination.

The internal top of the neck has been polished after this photograph has been taken and looks cleaner.

The blemish seen here is difficult to see with the human eye. Will polish out at a later time.

Bright and shiny, but not too glossy. Looks more like what it originally looked like from the factory.